Goodbyes

My last view of Ireland from the plane

After arriving back in Galway where the Cliffs of Moher tour ended it came time to do the thing that I had been dreading since about Day 2 in Dublin. That, of course, was saying goodbye to Laura. While in Ireland Laura was my best friend, confidant, roomie, and partner in crime. It is really tough to put into words exactly what she meant to me while I was abroad, so it obviously extremely hard to say goodbye to her. Not to mention, she lives in Melbourne so it was not like if I started missing her I could see her without flying 36 hours.

Anyway, we found the bus back to Dublin from Galway and I (of course) started crying. We didn't want to drag it out too much though and I got on the bus with Grace while everyone was staring at me because I was obviously crying (it's not like that is the first time that has happened).

Grace and I got into Dublin around 10 pm and took the last walk to the bus stop. I didn't want to say goodbye to the city that had welcomed me 4.5 months ago, but, as Andrea Bocelli would say, it was "time to say goodbye."

And when we got back to UCD is was not pretty. Basically I had to pack my life up into three suitcases and try to get it underweight before our 7:55 am flight to London. My distress is somewhat evident in my blog entry for that day. I let Grace sleep and began packing (while playing Glee on my computer). We didn't get our bags underweight but everything was packed and ready when we got the cab to the airport at about 5 am.

And before I knew it I was on a plane flying away from the country that became my home...

Inishmor- Galway

The three of us began our day by stopping by the Spar to get some breakfast which consisted of some less than delicious sausage rolls and also got some digestives to have as a snack later on in the day. We then rented some bikes and were off to explore the island of Inishmor.

We began riding around the island when before we knew it we were trapped in a stampede. It was a blur but I'll try to describe it as best I can. We were riding our bikes up a road (we barely saw anyone on the island and were the only ones on the road) when I saw three cows running around the bend next to a ruin. I naturally screamed "stampede!" Following closely behind the cows was a car carrying an angry farmer. The cows stopped but as soon as they saw the farmer jump out of the car they began running again. I think that it is safe to say that it was a near death experience.

Irish Style Stampede

Our first stop was the Dun Aengus, an iron age fort, which was described in my first Aran Islands post from March (when I first went with Carolyn and Kristina). It was a less than ideal day to look at the cliffs due to the fog (typical Ireland) but we still had fun sitting up there, eating digestives, and of course, having a photo shoot.

After taking our photo shoot and digestive snack at Dun Aengus and seeing the Seven Churches we went in search of lunch and since Supermacs is my favorite and I was leaving Ireland ion a couple of days we seized the opportunity and stopped in the Supermacs on Inishmor (one of only a couple restaurants there). We got a tenders meal (as per usual) and it just so happened that the Ellen Degeneres Show was on the TV in Supermacs. It might be due to the lack of TV over the semester or perhaps due to the fact that the guest was Lea Michele of Glee fame but Laura and Grace wanted to stay and watch so we did. It was nice relaxing after a rough bike ride and we got back in touch with our American side. And stay in touch with our Irish side as we ordered another order of tenders (they are pretty much amazing).

Laura & Claire- International BFFs

After lunch we returned our bikes and went back to the hostel to get all our belongings. And catch the ferry back to the mainland. The ferry ride was pretty nondescript and after about two hours of transit we arrived back in Galway, where we were staying at the Amber Lodge Bed and Breakfast. I really wanted Grace to experience a true Irish B&B while she was in Ireland so we splurged and got one. After spending a lot of time in hostels (including sharing a room with three very drunk men the last night you cannot imagine the joy of having the room to ourselves (and even having a bathtub).

After checking into the B&B and verifying that it had free Wifi we headed out to a pub for dinner. It was a typical Irish pub and had patches on the wall from US police departments, including one from Cook County and another from Naperville. It was like being back in the land of Lincoln.

While in the restaurant we realized Glee was on (we had heard an advertisement for it on the ferry) and I kindly asked the waiter if he could put on Fox. He responded, “I don’t think boxing is in season,” but then I repeated myself and he set to work trying to find Fox on the TV. I saw it come up on the guide and went up to the bar to tell the bartender. I said, “Is there any way you could put on Glee,” and he said, without hesitation, “No way in hell.” And that was that; no Glee for me.

Typical rundown of the food: I had Irish stew (had to get it in while I had the chance) and Gracie had bangers and mash, which included black pudding, so I think she is the fiercest eater I know.

After dinner the three of us started a mission to find Ben and Jerry’s Phish Food ice cream, which I got Laura addicted to. As our last night together we wanted to get some ice cream and watch “The Real Housewives of New Jersey,” just like back in good ol’ Roebuck 1. Our mission took us all the way out of the city centre of Galway and into the less quaint part, which had the Tesco and the ice cream. We bought some, along with a People magazine, and then set off back to the Amber Lodge B&B. We were all pretty tired and Laura offered to pay for a taxi back to the B&B so, after having some trouble hailing a taxi we were on our way back to the Amber Lodge.

Once we got back we took turns attempting to take baths (the faucet wasn't working well) and Laura was especially excited about it because she has not had a bath in three years! Three years! There is a draught in Australia and you can't take baths; I don't know how she has lasted that long. Anyway, it was nice to have a room to ourselves, instead of being in a hostel and after washing up and checking our emails we watched "The Real Housewives of New Jersey" while eating Phish Food ice cream. It was pretty perfect.

Galway-Aran Islands

On May 18 we woke up at 8:20 and caught the 9:25 bus out of Cork to Galway. We have truly become travel warriors. Here's an example. Grace and Laura wanted bagels (they are food twins) from the bagel place that opens at 9 in Cork, so we went to the bus station, everyone dropped their stuff, I watched it while they ran there to be the first in line as it opened, got the bagels, and made it back to the station before the bus left. It might not have been completely necessary but we still tackled it successfully.

Grace eating her bagel with Nutella on the bus

After a four hour and twenty minute bus ride we arrived in Galway. First order of business was buying ferry tickets so that we could reach the Aran Islands that night. Check. Second order of business was finding a post office to mail Laura's stuff at. Check. Third order of business was shopping.

Galway is pretty much the jewelry capital of Ireland and all three of us love jewelry so it was bound to be a fun and expensive day. Grace and I got matching trinity rings and Grace also got claddagh earrings that had the trinity. Laura got a little treble clef pendent too which was so cute. We also got many gifts for people and had a great time shopping.

Matching Trinity Rings

And then it was time to go to the ferry. We hopped on a bus that took us to the pier about an hour away and then slipped into the ocean to go over to the Aran Island of Inishmor. When we got off the ferry at Inishmor it was raining which was a bummer but we put up our hoods and found our hostel, called the Artist's Hostel (also the only hostel I could find on the island). However, when we got there we were told that the three of us would not be able to stay in the same room like planned because the owner's nephew had stopped by the hostel and he needed a place to stay with his two friends. No, she did not split up his group of three, just ours.

The bar Ti Joe Watty's was just a three minute walk from our hostel so we headed there for dinner and craic. Laura and I both got the vegetable soup with brown bread (typical Irish fare) and Grace had the chef's special pasta. Grace and Laura also split dessert, which became a theme throughout our travels.

We wanted to wait for the live music which we hoped would be traditional, but instead we got "music and comedy" from this very small man who had a Napoleon complex and kept telling the patrons to be quiet. The best part of his show was easily the "disco accordion." He basically had a beat going and just jammed out with his accordion.

Our roommates (the hostess's nephew and his friends) were also there and a little over-served. But they hadn't been actually over-served, they had brought a water bottle full of vodka and pre-gamed at the hostel. His name was Richard and he was really classy. He did come over to our table and chat with us but he was very drunk.

Disco Accordion!

We eventually went back to the hostel because we were exhausted from the fast-paced schedule I had made. Grace and I shared a bed in one room and Laura was in another room. After a little while Richard came back from the pub and we had a pretty funny conversation with him. Then his one friend came back and sat on our bed and talked to us for a while. We asked them where the third friend was but they said that they didn't know. Eventually Grace said that she heard him come back. Apparently he forgot the hostel he was staying in and ran around the island twice trying to find it. At least they provided us with some entertainment.

Galway with the Dsigs

Streets of Galway

The original plan for Kristina and Carolyn's first full day in Ireland was to wake up at 6 am and catch an early bus to Galway, but waking up at 6 am was asking a lot so we hit the snooze button for 2.5 hours. We then were out of the room by 9 and caught the bus out of Dublin.

Once we got into Galway our first task was getting tickets for the ferry that we had to take that night into Inish Mor. We got those at the Tourist Information place and then walked along the seaside into the center of town where all the shops and restaurants are. On Saturdays there is a small market around St. Nicholas Church so we browsed around there for little while. Carolyn and I got pretzels and Kristina and Carolyn also got crepes for a crepe stand. The owner was having a lot of fun cooking their crepes and even let them come into the small stand to take a picture.

One of the objectives we had going to Galway was getting an authentic claddagh ring from which originated around there. Serious shoppers that we are we browsed around for the best price and the perfect ring, ending up  at Thomas Dillon, the "original" makers of the claddagh ring. I don't know exactly what the qualifications are for being the original but their rings are the only ones that are allowed to write "original" on the back of their ring. They also had an exhibit at the back of the shop showing the first claddagh rings and telling their story. With the help of Kristina and Carolyn, enablers extrodinaire, I ended up purchasing a sterling silver one, which has a lifetime guarantee. All in all, I'm really glad I got a claddagh ring to remember my trip to Ireland.

After getting Kristina's mother some Ireland wool yarn we got on the shuttle that would take us to the dock for the ferry. It was a fairly long drive and then we had to take the ferry for about 45 minutes, leaving us at about 2 hours roundtrip with waiting. The Ireland v Scotland rugby game was on that day and the Irish, as of most of Europe, are very passionate about their rugby. Therefore the game was on the TVs on the ferry and everyone riding would cheer or moan with the game.

Watching the match

We pulled into the dock in Inish Mor, the largest of the Aran Islands. Our B & B, the Pier House, which Carolyn booked was right at the end of the pier (you probably could have guessed that) and we made our way over there. We ran into the man of the house coming out of the driveway and he said that we must have the wrong place because he had no reservations for that night. Carolyn panicked slightly and told him that she certainly made reservations. He brought us inside and realized that he had written our reservations for the wrong day and there was definitely room at the inn because we were the only people staying there. We dropped our stuff off in the room and headed out to find some dinner.

We ate at the Bayview Restaurant which had a fairly good selection and amazing garlic bread. After a short dinner where Carolyn and Kristina argued over who should have what sugar packet (because each had a different Irish proverb on it) we went out in search of some Irish music. We were told to go to Joe Watty's which was up the road about 7 minutes. The walk was kind of scary for me because it was so dark. The island is so vacant and there are barely any street lights so we were wrapped in darkness. Carolyn and Kristina said that they felt perfectly safe on the island but I always think of the worst case scenario.

We got to the cozy little Ti Joe Watty's and the music was going to start in about ten minutes so we got a table and some water. The music group of the night was a group of three boys, two of which were probably younger than us, and who looked like brothers. They played traditional Irish music, along with some contemporary pieces, and during "Galway Girl" a girl ran up and started Irish dancing. I got the local flavour there and it was a lot of fun. The boys were fairly good and near the end another older man took over for the guitarist. I just loved the feeling of the island and its people.

I'm thinking about trying to bring live Traditional music to Champaign.

Galway

I just love Oscar Wilde

Yesterday the U of I girls decided to take a daytrip to Galway, which was about a four hour drive. I'm glad we went because it seemed like most people I talked to raved about Galway, but in the end it wasn't the amazing eight hours that I had expected.

We woke up and took the bus from campus into the city in order to catch the 10 am bus to Galway. The roundtrip only cost me sixteen euro, so I thought that was a deal! And the drive there was very illuminating seeing as I found out two things about Irish fog: 1)It lasts the whole day. At home, it may be foggy for a couple hours in the morning or a little at night but it certainty wouldn't last the whole day. In Ireland, however, the fog sticks. And 2)The whole country is covered in the fog. I know because I pretty much cut through the whole country. There were occasional breaks in the fog where I could see some of the famed Irish countryside, but other than that it was like trying to see the landscape in the mirror after taking a shower.

Irish Sheep

When we arrived in Galway around 2:00 we needed lunch and made it to the quickest, cheapest place we could find. I am slightly ashamed to say that place was McDonald's. All I can say is Ireland is expensive and we are on a budget. They did however have curly fries at this Micky D's, so I did sample something I couldn't at home.

After the one euro hamburgers (even McDonalds isn't cheap; that's about $1.50 for a single hamburger) we headed to the ocean. I imagine the view is beautiful but the blanket of fog kept us from finding that out ourselves.

The Spanish Arch, built in 1584, was where the Spanish would unload their cargo from the many ships coming into Galway. This is the best remaining piece of the city wall. Also, Christopher Columbus was said to have visited Galway in 1477 and the Irish don't want you to forget it!

Brittany and Stacy in the fog off the River Corrib.

After our seaside stroll I lead us on a tour of both St. Nicholas churchs. He was the patron saint of sailors so that helps explain why there are two St. Nicholas in the same town. First stop was the Church of Saint Nicholas. There were people having some kind of service/social thing when we got there so we didn't have a great opportunity to look around. My guide book claims it is the greatest medieval building in town, dating back to 1320. Columbus was also said to have worshipped here when he visited in 1477. (sorry but I can't seem to get the pictures to center.)

Next we were off to the Cathedral of St. Nicholas which as built over 600 years after the church in 1965. It was a lovely church that I am very glad I made it to. And look who I found hiding there:

Why it is none other than the 35th president of the United States John F. Kennedy!

Who is apparently Jesus' left-hand man.

This is suppose to depict the "modern Irish holy family" according to my guide book. You can see Jesus serving Joseph a cup of coffee and Mary knitting.

It was really beautiful and I think the girls were glad I dragged them there.

The rest of the time there was spent walking along the cobblestone streets and window shopping. The Claddagh, the village where the claddagh ring originated, is right next door so they had a lot of rings on display. They also had a lot of musicians playing on the streets, including the guy with the invisible head:

Not only did the claddagh ring come from Galway, but so did the term "lynching." Apparently during the 15th century one of the Lynch boys killed a Spanish visitor and his father was the judge. He was sentenced to death but no one was willing to execute him, so Judge Lynch did it himself, and then went into seclusion. Lovely.

After we had had enough window shopping we found some dinner at a cute place called The Front Door. I had the beef and Guinness pie, which was basically just a beef stew type of thing, using Guinness, and some pastry on the top. Next we looked for some of the famed traditional Irish music of Galway, and stumbled into one of the pubs. It was a cute and warm atmosphere, but the music was not lively at all. The highlight was when one of the girls there said she just got engaged and all the men in the pub began singing "Going to the Chapel." After one drink, it had been a long enough day that we were ready to hop on the bus and go back to Dublin.

It was agreed that had the weather been better it would have been a better trip, but all in all I'm glad I saw Galway. It also might have been more fun if we had money to spend, but the exchange rate is not so good and even McDonald's isn't cheap.

Getting off the bus is Dublin showed me how much of a local I'm starting to become. I recognized landmarks, knew how late the buses ran, which routes we take back to campus, how to get the taxi and how much it will cost. There is still a long way to go, and I don't think I'll ever stop saying dollar instead of euro. Twenty years of habit dies hard.